Where To Buy Wood in Virginia, Maryland and Washington, DC?

Woodworking Resources in the DMV

To start, we need to define what “wood” means. Places to buy “Wood” come in several flavors to serve different industries. For woodworkers, we have several kinds of wood:

  • Hardwoods: Lumber harvested from a forest and cut into usable sizes, usually 1” – 3” thick, with no bark and one or two relatively straight edges.
  • Slabs: Larger sections of a tree with two “live” edges that often still has the bark on it. Can also be made from more exotic sections of a tree, such as a burl, a crotch or the root ball.
  • Sheet Goods: Large, flat and dimensionally stable engineered wood products made for applications where solid wood is an inappropriate material choice.
  • Construction Materials: The raw materials for building a dwelling or large structure, including wall studs, joists, beams, concrete, doors, windows, etc. Often, the studs and joists are made from softwoods, such as pine, fir and spruce.

Lumberyards stock …. lumber. Whether domestic or exotic, hardwood or softwood, lumberyards sell high grade, valuable wood used for fine furniture, household goods, art, etc. Great lumberyards will often carry woods such as oak, maple, walnut, birch, elm, padauk, sapele, mahogany, ebony, etc. The wood is often sold in the “rough”, meaning it still has the saw marks from the mill on it. Most lumberyards sell lumber that has dried in a kiln over several weeks or months. Once the lumber has reached 6-15% moisture content, it is ready to be sold and worked into a project. Lumberyards sell lumber by the board-foot, a measurement of volume, not per board, as in a home center. Lumberyards are often the only source of specialty plywood, such as baltic birch or veneered plywood for casework.

I grade lumberyards in three categories: convenience, price and quality. As a professional woodworker, I lean towards convenience. As a teacher, I often will take the best price. As a artist/hobbyist, I often prize quality. Your miles will vary. There are no perfect lumberyards in the DMV. Some have great service and weekend hours, some have incredible selection, some have great prices. None have all three.

Most lumberyards are open 9-5 M-F. Some have Saturday hours, often early. Very, very few have Sunday hours.

Building Material Suppliers sell all the things you need to build a house: pine lumber, LVL beams, concrete, forms, windows, trim, paint, etc. Some carry hardwood lumber, usually in S2S (planed on two sides) and sold by the linear foot. Building supply companies are often a great source for 2x pine (at higher quality than found in a big box store) and western/eastern red cedar.

Building material suppliers usually require a commercial account and have “banker’s hours” – meaning they open early and close early.

Lumber Mills turn logs into lumber. These places often sell slabs, cookies, crotches, and burls for use in furniture. Some mills may specialize in a type of wood, such as local domestic species or a product, such as mantles. The DMV has a number of companies that specialize in live-edge work.

Home Centers, such as Home Depot, Lowe’s, Ace Hardware, Walmart, etc. all may sell lumber of various types. Most lumber in a home center is sold by the piece, so for example, a kiln dried 2×4 will cost $6.25. Home centers are a great source for 2x pine, MDF, melamine and other common sheet goods.

Specialty Stores, such as Rockler, Woodcraft or Micheal’s, sell specialized selections of wood and supplies. These stores are great for specialized needs, rather than a general source of materials.

Let’s break down the local choices:

Lumberyards:

Virginia:

Colonial Hardwoods:

7953 Cameron Brown Ct, Springfield, VA 22153(703) 451-9217

Homepage

Great selection, more expensive prices, in Springfield near the Mixing Bowl, meaning traffic will be inconvenient. Great phone service. Great people in person.

They have rough lumber, pine of all kinds, and slabs.

C.P. Johnson:

21457 Business Ct, Elkwood, VA 22718

(540) 825-1006

Home

The man, the myth, the legend.

A lumberyard specifically designed for the woodworking enthusiast in mind. Cheap prices, incredible selection, great service and….WAY OUT IN CULPEPPER.

The only place for Baltic Birch in non-European sizes, or as I like to call it: the size of freedom.

Dunlap Woodcrafts:

14600 Flint Lee Rd # F, Chantilly, VA 20151

+17036315147

Home

Lumberyard specializing in figured woods for gunstocks and turnings. While they carry some 5/4 and 8/4 material and woods for purchase, the lumberyard to makers and woodworkers doesn’t seem to be their main business, which is gunstocks and custom furniture.

They do have lumber, but on the several occasions I called didn’t have maple or cherry in stock and that gets you off my personal best list.

I call for stock prices and availability before traveling there.

Maryland:

Frederick Lumber Company, Fredrick, MD

https://www.fredericklumber.com/

Exotic Lumber, Annapolis, MD

Home

Lumber Mills:

Local Woods:

49 Catoctin Cir SE, Leesburg, VA 20175

+1 571 442 8361

http://www.localwoodva.com/

Local Woods is a great lumberyard for yuppies who live in Loudoun Co and want urban harvested slabs. Best selection of figured slabs in the area, every time I go shopping.

Mostly walnut, cherry, oak.

Lots of ambrosia maple.

They carry a small stock of maple, oak, cherry, walnut hardwood lumber. They may also have flooring, wall treatments and mantles made from local trees, but really, it’s not what makes Local Wood great: they are slabs.

Herbine Hardwoods (Lucketts in LoCo), Eco-Lumber (Carpathian):

Small-time millers specializing in slabs.

Alexander Bros, Timberville VA

https://www.alexanderbrothers.com/

Mostly slabs and local domestic hardwoods in the rough.  Cheap mantles in 12/4 and 16/4.  Owned by a 4-set of brothers, this company consists of wood/lumber, furniture commissions, leatherworking and architectural blacksmithing.  Great people.  Prices may be the best in the area, quality a notch below CPJ and the breadth of material is on par with the smaller mills.

West Virginia:

Shenandoah Planing Mill, Charles Town, WV

https://www.shenandoahplaningmill.com/

Huuuuuge operation.  Mostly S2s locally milled hardwoods.  Lots of slabs, including walnut.  I was really impressed by the quality and really wonderful hard to find local domestics (beams of QS sycamore anyone?).  They also hold large events in the space.

Building Material Suppliers

Tart Lumber:

22183 Shaw Rd, Sterling, VA 20166

(703) 450-5880

https://www.tartlumber.com/

Sheets Quality Building Materials

703-938-9110

430 Mill Street, N.E.

Vienna, VA 22180

730-430-0116

Shaw Road

Sterling, VA 22170

http://www.sheets.cardservicetotalweb.com/

This is a weird mix of new old stock and new building materials. They sell things that have been on their shelves since the 1980’s but also have lots of new materials as well. All at top dollar. But if it hard to find somewhere else, Dave Sheets will likely be able to find it for you. If it is a stock item, he often delivers same day. Not the most friendly place; however, don’t get intimidated. the place out in Sterling also sells some structural steel. — review by Bill A, local maker and former general contractor.

Home Centers

Lowes:

White melamine, maple/birch/oak plywood for shop/painted-finish projects. If you want to buy pine, stick to the untreated 2x8s, 2x12s, etc.

Ignore the 2x4s and use the 2x6s against my better advice and at your peril. Lots of videos out there on how to “get great lumber at the home center.”

Home Depot:

Same selection as Lowe’s, except they have a much, much nicer sanded plywood that is really spectacular and only $30 (pre-pandemic price) a sheet or so.

Just crushes the value/quality curve in my mind.

The Reston Home Depot is the “Bad Place” for a reason. Do not attempt this store early hours, evenings between 4 and 7. Or really, any time you need great organization, accessible store clerks, or decent selection.

Ashburn/Sterling/Fairfax/Merrifield locations are all measurably better run.

Specialty:

Woodcraft:

Springfield, Virginia

or

Leesburg, Virginia

or

Rockville, Maryland

Home

https://www.woodcraft.com/stores/washington-dc-area

Rockler:

12975 Fair Lakes Shopping Center Ste 2975

Fairfax, VA 22033

Store Phone:

(571) 435-8030

https://www.rockler.com/retail/stores/va-fairfax-store Honestly, only good for very exotic turning materials and maybe as a purveyor of General Finishes and other premium finishes and tooling. As a lumberyard these stores are meh at best for selection and quite expensive. All these stores are open later than other lumberyards and even on Sundays.

I rarely see as good a selection in lumberyards for turning blanks and wild exotics. But Ebay also sells turning blanks and for less.

As does Amazon and elsewhere.

Amazon/Ebay/Web:

Best place for turnings and weird stuff.

There are a lot of lumberyards that will allow you to mail-order lumber and plywood, such as https://www.woodworkerssource.com/.

Not sure about the quality, I have only bought small stock from these sources.

If you have a review of a local lumberyard, let me know! I will update this page as I visit and check out different resources in the DMV area.

Techniques and Tips for Working in Cardboard

This spring of ‘24 I TA’d an Art & Design class at the Fab Lab of a local community college. The students had to design mid-size sculptures from cardboard and paper tape. I developed a list of some tips, tricks and techniques I learned while watching the class in the studio, assisting and trouble-shooting, testing out various construction techniques and tools.

Planning Your Project

Before you start cutting cardboard, sketch out your sculpture design. Consider the overall shape, dimensions, and any details you want to include. Sketch your project from a variety of viewpoints – a front view, side view, a top view – just like a technical drawing in engineering. If you sketch your early drafts small, create full-size or nearly full size sketches.

Most students find planning difficult, but just because something is difficult doesn’t mean it should be avoided.

If you are a computer person, create a CAD model in a preferred software.  Programs like Adobe Illustrator or Inkscape can generate these plans in 2D space, whereas 3D CAD programs, such as On-shape, Fusion 360, Inventor, Blender, etc. can create 3D models.  I generated the sketches above utilizing Fusion 360.  Building a Möbius sculpture is no small feat – but the visual sketch really helps me visualize the problem and might provide some clues to its construction. Pepakura is the Japanese art of papercraft and there are several computer programs built to take 3D models and turn them into paper patterns.

Lastly, create a small to medium sized model. Again, be as neat as possible. No shortcuts. Make your construction as perfect as possible, using as many construction techniques as possible for the final project.

Materials:

Not all cardboard is created equal.  Choosing the right cardboard for each step can truly be the difference between a successful project and a project full of frustration.

Cardboard has a number of advantages as a prototyping/construction material.  Cardboard is cheap, robust and easy to work with.  Brand-new cardboard can be purchased locally, online or even sourced for free.  Used cardboard can be found at nearly any grocery or large store. For free.  Cardboard can be manipulated with common crafting and woodworking equipment.  Cardboard can be glued with common adhesives and can be painted, shellacked and lacquered.

Cardboard has a few main characteristics: number of layers (or plys or walls), flute type,  surface treatment, and grain direction.

Walls/Faces/Ply – Cardboard comes in many thicknesses, but for most prototyping/art projects, one ply (or single wall) cardboard is the best choice.  Double and triple-walled cardboard are more appropriate for very large structures or structures which need to hold weight.

Surface treatment –  Some cardboard, especially work used in packaging foodstuffs and products, may have a surface coating that will feel slick and glossy.  This type of coating will reject paint, glues and other surface treatments.  New, bare cardboard that feels slightly rough will accept all paints/lacquers/shellacs/glues without complaint.  I almost always use new cardboard.

Grain – In the graphic above, notice the fluting in between the paper walls of cardboard.  The direction those flutes flow in is called the cardboard’s grain.  Cardboard can bend and fold in one orientation better than it can in a different orientation.  The grain causes this difference.  Test out your cardboard construction techniques with different grain orientations before committing to cutting your parts out.

Sourcing cardboard can be tricky on a budget.  The smaller the budget, the more compromises we make in construction.  Recycled cardboard can be found at many retailers for the price of a question to the right person.  The quality can be all over the place: grease, coatings, and unnecessary folds and tears all cause construction issues.  Costco has large sheets of cardboard that is single wall, raw/bare paper coatings and relatively intact that it uses between pallets to protect goods.

New cardboard can be purchased from a variety of sources.  I look for industrial supply companies, such as Global Industrial or Uline that specialize in packaging.  Amazon sells at a decent price point from a variety of sellers.  Home Depot, Lowe’s, and other big box hardware stores often have moving boxes for a few bucks.   Lastly, USPS sends flat rate postal boxes to your home for free.

Tools

Sharp utility knives, scissors, and a cutting mat are essential tools for working with cardboard. Make sure your blades are sharp to achieve clean cuts without tearing the cardboard.

Here are a selection of cardboard specific tools (and their use cases)

Hand Tools:

Utility Knife – I prefer a knife with a comfortable handle and retractable blade.  Blades can be bought by the bucket load for very little, so I often have a cheap pack of blades at the ready.

Hobby Knife – a smaller, lighter knife with a very sharp but flexible blade.  Useful for small, fiddly work, the hobby knife is usually a poor choice in cardboard.

Electric Scissors – small, powered scissors come in a variety of formats.  Most useful for long straight cuts when either the number of cuts or hand strength of the artist would limit use of a heavy duty scissor.

Heavy duty scissors – Often labeled as heavy duty scissors, kitchen shears or industrial scissors, these scissors often have shorter, angled cutting shears for better leverage cutting through heavier materials such as chicken bone, leathers and of course cardboard.

Canary Cardboard Cutter – A serrated saw that works on the push or pull stroke and can punch through a sheet of cardboard.  This little saw is great for breaking down thicker pieces of cardboard and cutting smooth curves.

Guillotine Paper Shear – These platforms are great creating long, repeatable cuts, such as squares or rectangles.  A heavy duty paper shear and thin cardboard works best for these tools.  I have a vintage Swingline and while I don’t often pull it out of deep storage, when I do, I’m a happy cardboard cowboy.

Makerspace & Digital Tools:

Vector Graphics Software – Cardboard is a flat, nearly 2D material.  Vector graphic software can help you design and create complex shapes by unfolding the shape into a geometric net.  Vector graphic software also allows you to use some very advanced tools, namely the laser cutter to create your project.

PaperMaker Or Pepakura Designer – These two programs take an .STL file and unfolds the geometry to create a geometric net which can be printed or lasered out, then refold your object back into shape.  The software is free, which means it mostly works, but has tons of quirks.  It needs a vector graphic software to unlock its full potential.

TinkerCAD – This beginner CAD (computer aided design) software allows you to create complex projects from simple shapes and concepts.  TinkerCAD has many more capabilities, but the design space is uniquely appropriate for cardboard construction.

Computer Aided Design Software – Computer Aided Design software, such as On-shape, Fusion 360 or Autodesk Inventor, can be used to create complex shapes, projects and more.  With cardboard construction, the sheet metal features in On-shape and Fusion 360 all the user to create flat, 2D nets which can be bent and cut into 3D shapes.  A great way to see how a piece might come together.  You can also take a shape, slice it into sections and build up a sculpture, similar to a 3D printer.

Laser Cutter – A laser cutter is a tool which utilizes a laser to cut, score or engrave a substrate.  The laser cuts faster and more accurately than by hand, so it’s useful for large, complex projects or sculptures.

Brake, Shears and Rollers – These are metalworking tools which can easily work plastics and cardboard.  Excellent ways to cut, bend and roll flat stock into curves.  While not essential to good work, access to a tool like this can make many tasks much easier.

Safety: Take your time when cutting cardboard to ensure accuracy. Use a ruler or straight edge as a guide for straight cuts, and use controlled motions to prevent tearing.  Sharp blades save fingers.  Cut/puncture gloves get better in feel and function all the time.  A great pair of these gloves pay for themselves after only one bad mishap.

Construction Techniques

There are many ways to manipulate cardboard to create interesting textures and shapes. Try scoring the cardboard with a knife to create folds, or layering pieces to add depth and dimension to your sculpture.  A quick Google search for “cardboard construction techniques” can open lots of possibilities.   Our version of the display looks like this

Glue and Tape: Use hot glue, white glue, construction adhesive, spray glue and wood glue are all great glues for cardboard.  Hot glue creates quick connections but struggles over the long term.  The white glue et. al. all need time to set and cure.  In order to use these glues to their full extent, you need to clamp the cardboard together and hold it clamped until the glue is dry, approximately 10 to 15 hrs later. Tape makes a great clamp.  If you use hot glue to tack two pieces of cardboard together while having a little bit of white glue in the joint, you combine the strength of white glue, etc, with the convenience and speed of hot glue.  Contact cement, superglue, epoxy and water-activated glues may work in certain contexts, but usually the glue needs a non-porous substrate (such as plastic or metal in the case of super glue, contact cement, epoxy) and or the activator (polyurethane aka Gorilla Glue) will delaminate the cardboard.  Experiment with different adhesives to find what works best for your project.

Tape can also be used to create interesting surfaces and hold the structure together.  Painters, packing and masking tapes all stick to cardboard easily, but don’t take well to surface treatments like paint or lacquer.

Paper tape, the kind of packing tape with a paper backing instead of plastic, comes in two adhesive types – a water activated and a regular adhesive.  Water activated tapes are best because they allow you to adjust their position after attachment without ripping or tearing the cardboard.

Paint and Finishes

Once your project is complete, you can paint it to add color and texture. Consider using acrylic paint, spray paint, or even decoupage techniques to achieve the desired look.

Color and gloss are very important in sculpture and making.  High gloss creates a shiny finish, which can be fascinating for the audience.  High gloss also protects the work from the elements.  High gloss finishes also showcase any flaws on the surface and have very low repairability.  Matte paints, on the other hand, hide flaws at the expense of protection.

Light colors can expose poor craftsmanship – think of a faded stain on a white shirt.  On the other hand, darker colors hide flaws in craftsmanship.

Cardboard can be finished similarly to wood, so check out this link to learn about the different finishes and what they do.  To go from a good to great project, some things to consider:

Water-based paints can cause ripples and waves in paper/cardboard structures.  To combat this, use light coats to build up the paint and minimize the amount of water the cardboard has to absorb.   Shellac-based primers may give better results.

Use a roller instead of a brush to limit ripples and runs on large, flat surfaces.  I use a 4” foam roller for large surfaces and a 1” sash brush for details.   A sash brush is a paint brush with angled bristles.  The shape allows it to get into corners and tight spaces.

Use a brush designed for the type of paint you are using.  Good brushes cost only a few dollars more than cheap brushes, but the final result is the difference between good and great.  Small, higher quality brushes are often sold as artist brushes.

Spray paint, especially if the spray paint is cheap and/or glossy, will require multiple light coats – the coverage is surprisingly terrible.  Use a matte primer before trying a glossy finish.  Not all spray paints are built the same.  Krylon and Rustoleum make entry level spray paints.  My experience with Behr’s Premium line has been eye-opening.   Premium spray paint covers better and provides a more even finish and spray pattern.  Premium brands, such as Montana, MTN and Molotow provide an even better finish.

Bedframe Bench in Sycamore, Ipe and Cherry

This past December I completed this bench for a close friend. He has served as a mentor and cheerleader for my professional education, woodworking and cooking endeavors for the last five years, so when he asked me to build him a special piece from his grandmother’s solid cherry bed frame, I couldn’t say no. I utilized several new techniques and processes to complete this unique piece.

The bench’s seat was milled from a single slab of local air-dried sycamore. I was able to secure most of the trunk, but this seat came from the exact center of the trunk. I cut out the pith of the tree, creating two rift sawn sycamore planks. While I did lose the single-slabby-chic look I love, rift sawn sycamore moves very little, and the two planks match in color.

I used dominoes with polyurethane glue to get everything together. Weather-resistant polyurethane glue is perfect for outdoor applications like this. The raw slab wasn’t dried to perfect condition. The raw slab had water damage and some light spalting. Luckily, the milling process kept the spalting while removing the worst of the water damage.

The bench frame needed some wily construction and problems-solving. First, I needed to cut a straight line across the footboard, parallel to the plane of the feet. Each post contained squared sections with small roundovers and a number of turned feet and finials. I decided to make a plywood sled and utilize scrap wood to clamp the unwieldy frame down. A quick prayer, then cut, then flip and repeat later, and I had a front frame with a straight edge ready for a bench seat. The rails of the bench frame are made of scrap ipe. Strong, heavy, rot-resistant woods such as ipe work well in outdoor applications such as this. I utilized a doweling jointer to get the pieces together. Dowel joints provide a lot of strength but do require more accuracy in construction than domino or biscuit joints. In this application, biscuits wouldn’t have provided the necessary strength for a bench, while dominos would have been limited in number (and strength) while being difficult to install. My doweling jointer was just large enough with just a large enough fence to create a strong joint with very little fuss.

Once the bench frame was glued up, I needed to create the small cutouts that allow the seamless for the frame. I used a radius gauge to measure the round overs and created a template for the cut out on my laser cutter from acrylic. After cutting the bulk out with a jigsaw, I used a top bearing flush trim bit mounted in a hand router to define the curve, then used a bottom bearing flush trim bit mounted in a router table to clean the curve up. The fit was perfect.

Outdoor wood projects will move, split and rot if left to the elements. Some woods, such as the ipe used in this project, last longer in the elements, but all woods eventually rot and crack without protection. To protect this project, I sprayed the bedframe with 2 coats of exterior/interior primer and 3 coats of outdoor water-based acrylic enamel. I love spray finishes. High-gloss finishes, such as lacquers, polyurethanes and gloss paints, really respond to spray finishing. So smooth, so clean, so perfect. To protect and showcase the sycamore bench top, I utilized a matte/high-gloss clear polyurethane. I cut the water-based matte polyurethane with 10% water and sprayed several coats to build the finish up. I sanded the top with 300(ish) grit sandpaper, wiped off the dust, then applied two gloss coated. I brushed the last coats on but still looked amazing. High quality finishes really perform under less than ideal conditions. In this case, spray season ends sometime in October here in Northern Virginia, so I had to brush on my last coats. To protect the feet from wicking moisture from the end-grain, I installed adjustable metal feet and coated the bedframe’s foot bottoms in epoxy.

Assembly went smooth – figure eight fasteners make quick work of attaching bench or table tops while accounting for wood movement. As a final touch, I designed a special plaque congratulating my friend on his recent wedding and attached it to the back of the bench. I laser engraved the image using a dry moly lube coating on stainless steel. The lube heats up and turns into a permanent coating. I sprayed several coats of exterior spray lacquer to minimize rust.

This piece represents so much to me. I haven’t showcased my work in nearly 3 years here on WoodshopCowboy, not because I haven’t been making awesome projects, but because I my energy and heart has been tied up by a pandemic, trying to launch a woodworking business and nearly 3 years as a program director for a local makerspace developing workforce development and youth programs. Delivering this piece wasn’t just delivering on a long ago promise to a friend, but also the recovery of a long ago promise to myself, a promise to make beautiful things and to enjoy the journey.

Thank you for your continued support.

Thank you for visiting my blog. To support for this site, please like WoodshopCowboy on Facebook or follow me on Instructables. Twitter, Pinterest or Instagram.

#Woodworking Classes Have Gone Online

Even when the makerspace is closed, makers gonna make. I have moved my woodworking instruction online during this challenging time, hoping to inspire and excite you.

My Project Class series online and moved it to Wednesday nights. On April 22nd, I walked through the design and construction of a simple kitchen cabinet. In this class, students learned to source and prep plywood the easy way, use all the necessary tools, joinery techniques, door construction and finishing to create your own kitchen cabinet at home or at a local makerspace.

Image from iOS (3)

On May 6th,I will build a simple box with a raised panel lid. This box will feature miter and spline joints, raised panels and bullet hinges.

Image from iOS

On May 22nd, I will demonstrate making brindle & half-lap joints, dadoes and more on the table saw for a workbench.

These are great opportunities to talk shop with an experienced woodworker with a low student count. I always have fun and rarely offer classes twice – I like designing classes as much as I like building projects. So come join me at Nova Lab’s MeetUp.

Learn #Woodworking this weekend! Two Spots Left!

Wooworking Live-Edge Slap TablesWhat are you making this weekend? Here at Woodshop Cowboy, we are making cutting boards and slab tables at Nova Labs, of Reston, Virginia. Nova Labs is offering two premier woodworking classes at the premier makerspace in the DMV area. If you have ever wanted to learn woodworking from tree-to-furniture, this is the time to do it!

learn-woodworking

WW: Live-Edge Slab Tables

Farm to table? We are gonna do tree-to-table! Learn to turn a massive slab of wood into a functional piece of furniture! In this class we will learn all about SLABS! Featuring a field trip to a local supplier, Local Wood of Leesburg/Berryville VA, students will learn all about how slabs are milled, dried and made ready for market. Students will purchase slabs, then flatten and prep their slab for finishing. Students can design and build wood bases during class time, or purchase pre-made legs. Consider this a build-a-long: you get access to the tools, expertise and guidance of an experienced woodworking instructor. Make butterfly keys, discuss epoxy pours, discuss (and if it’s a nice day, actually spray) spray and oil-based finishes. This is the PREMIER WOODWORKING class of the summer 2018.

16688040294_1b9aec68f3_b
Solid Wood Slab Dining Tableby Indo Gemstone IndoGemstone
Licensed under CC-BY 2.0
Original source via Flickr

 

 

Be the hipster you know you can be!

Sign up at Meet Up to attend this great class! Plus, you can attend the Day 1 Session for only $15!

April 18, 6pm @ Leesburg Local Wood VA

April 19, 7pm to 10pm

April 20, 9am to 4pm

That’s over TEN HOURS of small group instruction. LET’S DO THIS!

Cost: $200. Materials must be purchased by student separately on first day of class.

This Week in the Shop: The Closet Organizer

The Closet Organizer

Last month, Marie Kondo’s show hit Netflix and it seemed like everyone needed to find a way to tidy up their life. I renovated the laundry last year – removing and installing new flooring, re-painting the walls, constructing new cabinets, etc. The last ticket to punch was to design and install a closet organizer.

The Closet Organizer

I began by figuring out what I would store in the closet, then designing a shelving system that would work in the space available. Taking a look at what I needed looked like this:Closet Organizer

Essentially, I designed a small tower with two shelves and two pull out drawers. Due to the design of the closet, I would install the tower underneath a top shelf, slightly off center. This allowed me to pull out the drawers fully with my chosen slides.

This build used pocket holes for most joinery, full extension slides, and liberal use of a table saw. Check out the video to follow along with the build!

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This Week in the Classroom: Top Ten Middle School #MakerEd Challenges (Plus Two!)

Top Ten Middle School #MakerEd Challenges (Plus Two!).jpgThis Week in the Classroom I’m going to explore a variety of design challenges that I use in my classroom. I designed each of these projects to prompt students to explore the engineering design process, learn basic scientific concepts, such as forces and loads on structures, learn executive functioning and soft skills, and develop presentation skills in a variety of media. These projects are designed to be super flexible in practice. I can extend these projects, compress the time, develop thematic elements. None of these projects use expensive materials or electronics. Some of these project briefs I use nearly every year, in nearly every course. They are simply that good.

Continue reading “This Week in the Classroom: Top Ten Middle School #MakerEd Challenges (Plus Two!)”

This Week in the Shop: The Library Book Nook

The Library Book NookThis Week in the Shop, I build a library book nook for my school. My school librarian came to me with her coffee bar theme for a renovated library and she wanted a circular book nook to take advantage of a certain space in the library. This book nook had to incorporate a column and reclaimed table top, be made under budget (roughly $500), have a professional look, design and materials.

I looked at her requirements, looked at the space and said…yeah….I can do that.

Follow along as I show you how!

Installing a Laminate Countertop

My toughest challenge was resurfacing an old table top. This table top needed a new, hard surface that wear well and last years and years. Laminate, a composite plastic material with a cloth backing, fits the bill nicely and can be ordered in a variety of colors and shapes from your local home center.

Laminate comes in special order sheets, often 24” or 30” wide, and 96” long – the perfect size for a kitchen countertop. I had a table, so I needed to buy a 48” x 60” sheet. The trick is to very carefully measure your countertop and edging, then develop a cut list, then buy the right material for your work. The half-circle shape of the table top meant we had to purchase an extra sheet in a funky width.

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Laminate cuts very easy with a sharp table saw blade but getting to the blade safetly on a table saw may be tricky. it may be safer to lay the laminate out on a sheet of sacrificial plywood and cut it with a sharp, high-tooth circular saw blade, good face up. I used a featherboard to help keep the laminate straight and flat on the table.

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Prep the substrate for application with a quick cleaning and light sanding. Next, spread contact cement with a roller on both the laminate and substrate. Allow the contact cement to dry, roughly 20 minutes, depending on environmental conditions. Wear a respirator or have great ventilation during this step.Untitled_1.41.1

Carefully place dowels or small sticks on the surface of the substrate. Place the laminate in position on the dowels. Untitled_1.42.1Carefully remove the dowels, starting in the center. Contact cement bonds instantly, so move slow and careful. Untitled_1.43.1Then use a J-roller to push out any air bubbles and help fix the countertop in place.

Untitled_1.45.1Using a small trim router with a flush-cutting bit, trim the edges of the laminate flush with the substrate surface. I did the edges first, then the faces of my tabletop.

Lastly, use sandpaper or a file to clean the edges and remove burrs and sharp corners.

With any luck, this design will last a few student generations. The wood columns are strong and sturdy, and if the table top sags or shifts, larger brackets can always be installed.

Thank you for your continued support.

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Learn to Make Slab Tables & Cutting Boards

Learn WoodworkingWhat are you making this summer? Here at Woodshop Cowboy, we are making cutting boards and slab tables at Nova Labs, of Reston, Virginia. Nova Labs is offering two premier woodworking classes at the premier makerspace in the DMV area. If you have ever wanted to learn woodworking from tree-to-furniture, this is the time to do it!

WW: Cutting Boards

2-Day class: 7 shop hours. Friday 7pm to 10pm and Sun 10 am to 2 pm

learn-woodworking

Have you ever wanted to learn woodworking, but didn’t know where to start? In this course, build a beautiful wood cutting board while learning the ins-and-outs of the major woodworking machines in the woodshop. We learn the basics about makerspaces, hardwood vs. softwood, shop safety, milling dimensioning and more. This is a popular class, offered quarterly…in fact, it might already be full!

Learn to use the SawStop Table Saw, Jointer, Planer, Miter Saw, Band Saw, Disk/Belt Sander, Oscillating Sander, Drill Press, Small Band Saw, Scroll Saw — every tool except the lathe and the kitchen sink!

Cost: $100

WW: Live-Edge Slab Tables

Farm to table? We are gonna do tree-to-table! Learn to turn a massive slab of wood into a functional piece of furniture! In this class we will learn all about SLABS! Featuring a field trip to a local supplier, Local Wood of Leesburng/Berryville VA, students will learn all about how slabs are milled, dried and made ready for market. Students will purchase slabs, then flatten and prep their slab for finishing. Students can design and build wood bases during class time, or purchase pre-made legs. Consider this a build-a-long: you get access to the tools, expertise and guidance of an experienced woodworking instructor. Make butterfly keys, discuss epoxy pours, discuss (and if it’s a nice day, actually spray) spray and oil-based finishes. This is the PREMIER WOODWORKING class of the summer 2018.

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Solid Wood Slab Dining Tableby Indo Gemstone IndoGemstone
Licensed under CC-BY 2.0
Original source via Flickr

 

 

Be the hipster you know you can be!

Sign up at Meet Up to attend this great class! Plus, you can attend the Day 1 Session for only $10!

July 26, 6pm @ Leesburg Local Wood VA

July 27, 7pm to 10pm

July 28, 9am to 4pm

That’s over TEN HOURS of small group instruction. LET’S DO THIS!

Cost: $150. Materials must be purchased by student separately on first day of class.

This Week in the Shop: Tool Rack

This Week in the Shop we build tool holders for my recently installed tool wall. An organized workspace is a functional workspace, especially in community shops. When everything has its place, every part of the shop seems to work quicker. So this week, I put together a few tool holders to put up some screwdrivers, chisels, pliers and nail sets.

Tool Racks

There are tons of storage solutions out there. I prefer tool walls, both in my personal shop and at community shops. The plywood provides a solid anchoring surface and custom tool holders can be rearranged as needed. Tool holders can be customized for each tool and can be made from small scraps for next to nothing. Lastly, they can be painted, stained, chalkboarded and more. A tool wall fits any work are, whether craft, machine, woodworking, leather or whatever else.

I have used pegboard, hanging tool-o-dexes, tool chests and more to help organize my workspace. Pegs fall out, hanging tool-o-dexes cost too much for their value, and tool chests attract clutter. Commercial systems never seem to be worth the bang for the buck (nor are they as much fun to install as designing your own tool holder).

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